Get ready for the worst and survive the least…

Day 283, Oviedo, 16.170 km

I was promised hell: thunderstorms, wind, and especially a lot of rain. In the end, I rode through the drops, I was sometimes faster than the rain, or just got lucky, I don’t know, in any case it seems that a good angel is watching over me these days…

In the morning, I take a little tour of Santiago, have a brunch to have something in my stomach for the day, and then set off. To answer some reactions to the last article, Santiago, like Dresden or Bratislava before it, decided to renovate one of its monuments, in this case the cathedral, at the time of my visit, as if to show me only a part of its charms. On the other hand, it was still possible to go for a walk in the cathedral and to admire the famous censer, which was unfortunately not moving…

It’s time to leave. The weather is stormy, and the sky is quite gray. The road goes up, for a change, and is far from being spectacular: as at the arrival the day before, gas stations, dealerships or industrial areas follow one another. Then I am a little more in the countryside, but we remain on a rather monotonous road: fields, forests, forests then fields. I make two photos in the day, two rivers which come to break a little the monotony of the landscape. Rivers which are very similar to each other by the way. About rain? Only a few drops that shorten one of my breaks. I decide to stop in a field for the night, and as I finish putting up the tent, the storm breaks. Clutch.

River n°1
Same same, but different (as my Indians friends often say)

The thunder is loud during the night, it even falls quite close to me once or twice but it doesn’t prevent me from sleeping like a log. The next day, it doesn’t rain anymore when I get up but I get a big shower a few minutes after the start: I have to admit that it’s not ideal for warm up… The road goes up a bit more, but I quickly find myself in a nice descent, with the sun coming out from behind the clouds. The road is quite flat, it’s good after the big hills of the last days. I decide to make a small detour to get closer to the sea, to try to see some beaches, and I’m glad I did! I follow the coast for about ten kilometers and my eyes are full of it…

I follow the national road again for a few kilometers, then again the beach, the cliffs, the rocks, the sea. All this always under the sun, with some clouds in the sky which seem to be pushed away from the sea, far from my road… I enjoy it! I cross the pretty town of Luarca, which reminds me a bit of Karlovy Vary in the Czech Republic, and I start to take the small mountain road that should bring me to the place I’ve found to stop tonight. It goes through the forest, passes and passes again under the highway, in small villages, in sight of the sea or a little more inland, under a very grey sky but still no rain. I arrive at the Playa del Silencio (a very poetic name), magnificent, and I spot a small hut below which will provide me with a perfect shelter against the wind. Unluckily, this hut seems to be someone’s bachelor pad, this someone being in the process of repainting his roof (he probably is a hussar, this boy…). Missed. Fortunately, there is a small flat piece of land a little higher on the cliff: best bivouac spot in the world, mark my words!

Playa del Silencio
The hussar on the roof…
The Spot

As the day before, the rain starts to fall when I am under the tent. I look at the weather forecast to try to reassure me for the next day: failed, they announce rain all day. Great. I just have to sleep and hope… It rains all night long, but again no more in the morning when in wake up… What more to ask for! The day is again under the sun, few adventures, except when the national road I am following turns into a highway, or when I am so absorbed by my GPS that I crash into a car in Oviedo. Result: a bag to throw away and a good fright but otherwise everything is fine!

The countryside before arriving in Oviedo

I have time to have a little tour of Oviedo between the raindrops and the glasses of cider, and I find statues everywhere, it must be an electoral campaign topic for the mayors of Oviedo: to the one who will add the most statues! On that note, see you later!

Woody Allen
La Maternidad, by Botero
The Regent

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